LOCATION ATANAS SKATOV
The first Bulgarian winter expedition to K2, 8611m.
Day 45 (02.02.2021):
After a long wait, which lasted almost 18 days, shortly before the end of the expedition we received a good forecast for the days of February 4th and 5th. The window is very short, but this is our only chance to try to climb to the top. Wish us to have as little wind as possible and more sun.
With humility and prayers to the King of the Mountain – Mount Chogori!
God forward and we after him!
Forward and up together, dear friends!
Thank you all very much for your support!
Day 33 (21.01.2021):
Yesterday and today we walk around the base camp, took pictures and enjoyed the beautiful peak, where today the wind speed is over 100 km / h. Every day I provide a yoga class to my friends, watch movies in the common tent and pray for good weather. For now, there is no possibility for the top until the end of the month. Hope remains in February. I wish everyone health and only positive thoughts and emotions!
Day 28 (16.01.2021):
Today 16.01.2021 is a historic day for mountaineering, which will be talked about for a long time. A large group of Nepalese Sherpas showed that the impossible is possible by climbing the only unclimbed in winter eight thousand. I cordially congratulate them! I’m glad that they were the first to climb the top. They deserve it! I strongly believe that we will have a chance and good weather in the coming days. Incredibly difficult peak, which often has no climbs even during the summer season. Well done boys! We are proud of you!
Unfortunately, however, the great joy of success today was quickly overshadowed. On the way down to base camp my great friend, motivator and best climber I know, 14×1000 Catalonia Project Sergi fell and is now in the kingdom of heaven. Sergi lived in the skies, the best athlete I know, who has successfully completed many triathlons, Iron Man, Ultra Me and an amazing high-altitude climber. He always helped me a lot with advice. Incredibly good man, modest, always smiling, responsive. Together we climbed the peaks G2 and Dhaulagiri in 2019. I’m not on my own and I don’t know how this expedition will continue. I express my sincere condolences to Sergi’s relatives, as well as to his supporters. He will always be in our hearts!
We miss you so much!
Yesterday I went down to base camp after my second acclimatization to camp 2, 6600m. On January 11 we went to the Japanese camp 1 in a strong wind, where we had left the equipment from the first acclimatization. We found her tent broken and unusable. Good thing we had a second tent. On January 12 we reached camp 1 at 6050m, where we spent the night again in strong wind. On 13.01 we reached the Japanese camp 2, which is just below camp 2. After 2 nights at this level I decided to go down to the base camp even though I was carrying equipment for the top.
It is difficult for me to air-condition on this winter expedition and I am not in my shape. I was also convinced that this was the most difficult eight thousandth. The terrain is very technical and dangerous. Stones fell and several people were injured, one in danger. A difficult and very dangerous peak.
Day 25 (13.01.2021):
I’m already in Camp 2. Despite the cold and fatigue, I feel well. Unfortunately, the tent that will remain in Japanese Camp 1 was destroyed by the strong wind, but the situation is under control. Thank you everyone for your kind words and support you send everyday! It means a lot to me!
Day 23 (11.01.2021):
Early this morning, Nasko went on a second rotation for better acclimatization. During the first we refrained from you that there was diarrhea accompanied by fever and vomiting. After consulting with a doctor, he had to take an antibiotic for 5 days. Fortunately, he is already feeling better, and given that he has a good weather forecast for the coming days, Nasko went to the high-altitude camps. Yesterday we learned that due to the strong wind from the previous days, some of the tents of Camp 1 and the previous Japanese camp had fallen off, and other had broken. We hope that Nasko’s luggage and the luggage deposited by the other participants are unharmed and in place. A difficult expedition in which you need not only knowledge and practical experience, but also a lot of luck and good weather!
Skatov Team
Day 18 (06.01.2021):
Yesterday the expected Puja took place. At the prayer ceremony, we all prayed for Chogori to let us to her heights. From now on we are expecting good weather. The forecast for the next few days is not very good, but we believe that we will have a window to attack!
Day 17 (05.01.2021):
Today my partner and I went back to base camp. The purpose of the rotation one was to spend a night in the first and second Japanese camps. Unfortunately, the weather was very bad and we spent two days in camp 1, 5850m.
The wind is very strong, over 70km/h. In combination with a temperature of -30 degrees, I understand why no one managed to climb more than 7400m for 20 years. But the expedition is in its very beginning and I strongly believe in the success!
Day 15 (03.01.2021):
We wish success and good weather to Atanas and his partner Lakpa, who went on their first acclimatization rotation this morning. As you can see on the pictures, the weather is a bit gloomy, but more importantly there is no strong wind. We expect that after two nights in the high camps they will return to the base camp, where in a few days the ritual prayer ceremony Puja will take place.
Day 10 (29.12.2020):
Greetings from Base Camp K2! Today we managed to go from Concordia to Base Camp, the weather was sunny but very cold. We built the tents in the camp and I’m happy to be here, Sheny is feeling well too. It’s her first time at such an altitude – 5100 meters. It’s very beautiful and while speaking I’m currently seeing the way to the summit. Temperatures are around -25 at night in the tent and -15 during the day. We’ll stay 2-3 days in Base Camp for acclimatization and if the weather is good I’m starting my first rotation to Camp 1.
Day 4 (23.12.2020):
Today we are in Skardu at 2500 meters altitude and we are preparing the luggage for tomorrow’s trekking. Final preparation. Also we are enjoying the sunny weather and the smiley local people. Last night at the hotel we slept at 0 degrees Celsius. Heater is turned off during the night and tap water is running all night because pipes could get frozen. Tomorrow we are going higher in the mountain and the temperatures will go down under 0 degrees Celsius.
Day 3 (22.12.2020):
Today the weather was increadible and we flew from Islamabad to Skardu – at last. I had the unique opportunity to see Nanga Parbat again. I felt trembling longing and desire – soon to be given the opportunity to “meet”. If all goes according to the plan, on December 24 we will departure to Askole, from where the trekking for base camp will begin. Wish us a good weather!
Day 2 (21.12.2020):
We arrived safely in Islamabad with the intention of flying to Scardu, but due to bad weather our flight was canceled. Our group is growing – Sergi, Tamara, Juan Pablo More, Valdi, Antonios, Matthias, Alex and other worthy and courageous enthusiasts. Good luck everybody!
Day 1 (20.12.2020):
Today begins a new and very special journey for me. Winter expedition over 8000 meters is determined to be a very serious challenge, even if it is not K2. I am extremely grateful and honored to have this opportunity to learn many new things about the winter mountain above 8000 meters and the only one that is still an unclimbed peak during the winter on our planet K2, 8611m in Karakorum, Pakistan.
For me this is expedition number 21 for the last 8 years and the 14th over 8000 meters. But no matter how much experience you have in the mountains, it is never enough. Only the mountain decides whether to allow us to reach the top.
On this expedition, one of my dreams comes true, to have a close person on base camp, who can support and help me. So in this journey I’m together with my friend. Her zeal and her enthusiasm for her participation in this expedition is incredible.
Thank you very much for all the support and trust. Together we will climb to the top, as always. Positive thinking and strong faith!
